Croatia travel guide: what to do and see

Nicknamed the "Pearl of the Adriatic", Dubrovnik grabs you from the first sight of its orange roofs packed behind walls of golden stone. The turquoise sea laps at the ramparts, and the polished marble lanes shine in the sun.

This fortified city has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1979. Its walls, nearly two kilometres long, encircle an almost intact old town, the legacy of the powerful Republic of Ragusa.

Here you walk the walls, stroll along the Stradun, and visit palaces, monasteries and the historic harbour. Fans of TV series will recognise many famous filming locations.

If you could see only one city in Croatia, this would be it. None other packs in so much beauty, history and Mediterranean atmosphere.

Plitvice looks like a watery dream. Sixteen lakes of turquoise water step down in terraces, linked by waterfalls that rumble softly between the forests. Wooden boardwalks wind right at water level, as close to the spectacle as you can get.

The park has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1979. It counts nearly 100 waterfalls, including the spectacular Veliki Slap, about 78 metres high, the tallest in Croatia.

You hike along marked trails, take electric shuttles and boats between the lakes, and watch protected wildlife. Several routes, from two to six hours, fit your own pace.

It's the most famous natural site in the country, and rightly so. No photo truly does justice to these unreal colours.

In Split, history is lived every day. Diocletian's Palace is no frozen museum but a living quarter where cafés, shops and flats fill thousand-year-old Roman walls. You wander beneath ancient arcades lined with drying laundry.

This complex, built in the 4th century for the Roman emperor Diocletian, is a UNESCO World Heritage site. It forms the historic heart of the country's second city, opening onto the Riva, the seafront promenade.

You explore the peristyle, the Cathedral of Saint Domnius, the vaulted basements and the bell tower. In the evening, the squares come alive with concerts and terraces.

Few places in the world let you live inside a Roman palace. Split is also the ideal hub for reaching the islands.

Hvar breathes sunshine and lavender. Reputed to be Croatia's sunniest island, it unfolds purple fields, vineyards and a lively harbour watched over by a Venetian fortress. The scent of herbs drifts across the hills.

The island is home to the Stari Grad Plain, a UNESCO site. Its Greek field system, 24 centuries old, has remained almost intact, a rare witness to the ancient organisation of the land.

Here you taste local wines, hike between olive trees and lavender, and take a boat to the Pakleni islets and their crystal-clear coves. The town of Hvar mixes water sports with lively nights out.

Hvar combines nature, heritage and the good life like few islands do. It's the perfect stop to slow the pace down.

Trogir sits on a small islet linked to the mainland by bridges. The old town, compact and car-free, reveals a maze of stone lanes where you pass from Romanesque to Gothic to Renaissance in just a few steps.

Located 27 km from Split, this town has been a UNESCO site since 1997. Its jewel is the Cathedral of Saint Lawrence, whose portal carved by Radovan ranks among the masterpieces of medieval Croatian art.

You stroll the waterfront, climb the bell tower for the view, and sit down at a konoba in the shade. The town's human scale makes it easy to visit in half a day.

Trogir packs centuries of art into a few hectares. Its closeness to the airport makes it an ideal stop.

The Cathedral of Saint James in Šibenik impresses with its pale stone and elegant outline above the harbour. Up close, the detail astonishes: the stone seems assembled without a trace of mortar, in a unique technical feat.

A masterpiece of the Dalmatian Renaissance, it has been a UNESCO site since 2000. Its famous outer frieze lines up 71 carved faces, realistic portraits of locals of the time, and its dome is built entirely of stone.

Here you admire the architecture, the frieze and the light-filled interior, before exploring the stepped lanes of the old town. Šibenik, less visited, keeps an authentic atmosphere.

This cathedral is an open-air lesson in architecture. It's also the natural gateway to Krka National Park.

Zagreb cultivates a Central European charm of pavement cafés, colourful markets and elegant Austro-Hungarian façades. The Croatian capital is best experienced on foot, coffee in hand, far from the seaside bustle of the coast.

The city splits in two. The Upper Town, made up of the historic districts of Gradec and Kaptol, is home to St Mark's Church and its colourful tiled roof. The Lower Town lines up museums, parks and 19th-century avenues.

Here you visit original museums, the cathedral and the Dolac market, then settle into one of the many cafés. The famous funicular links the two levels in just a few seconds.

Often skipped by travellers rushing to the sea, Zagreb deserves a stop all the same. It's a lively, cultural capital.

Krka puts on a water show at grand scale. The river tumbles down a series of foaming waterfalls amid lush nature, in a more accessible and open setting than Plitvice.

The headline sight is Skradinski Buk, a vast tiered waterfall you discover from wooden boardwalks. The park is easily reached from Šibenik, which makes it a popular day trip.

Here you walk along the trails, watch the wildlife and plant life, and visit traditional mills. Swimming, long allowed near the falls, is now regulated to protect the site.

Krka is an easier-to-reach alternative to Plitvice, ideal as a complement or if time is short. The scenery is just as photogenic.

Zadar plays with the senses. By the water, the Sea Organ turns the waves into melody through pipes hidden beneath the steps, while the Greeting to the Sun lights up the ground as night falls.

The city blends Roman remains and Venetian heritage in an old town on a peninsula. Its sunset is so famous that filmmaker Alfred Hitchcock reportedly called it the most beautiful in the world.

Here you visit the Roman forum and ancient churches, sit on the musical steps of the Sea Organ, and enjoy the waterfront. Zadar stays more authentic and affordable than the big tourist stars.

This city wins you over with its relaxed mood and unique contemporary installations. It's a handy base for central Dalmatia.

Korčula looks like a miniature Dubrovnik set on the sea. Its fortified old town is laid out in a herringbone pattern, a clever plan where the lanes channel the breeze and shield against the wind. The walls plunge straight into the Adriatic.

The island proudly claims to be the reputed birthplace of the explorer Marco Polo. It's also renowned for its vineyards and its Pošip white wine, one of the most loved in the country.

Here you wander the medieval town, taste the local wines and, with a little luck, watch the Moreška. The surrounding beaches and coves invite you to swim.

Korčula combines heritage, wine and living tradition in an intimate format. It appeals to those who want an island away from the bustle.

The Pula Amphitheatre takes your breath away. This nearly intact Roman arena rises in the middle of the city, its golden stone arches outlined against the Istrian sky. You can easily picture the ancient crowd roaring beneath its tiers.

Built in the 1st century, it could hold up to roughly 23,000 to 24,000 spectators and ranks among the best-preserved Roman amphitheatres in the world. Pula also keeps a Temple of Augustus and a triumphal arch.

You visit the arena and its underground galleries, then explore the city's Roman centre. In summer, the monument returns to its role as a venue with concerts and film screenings.

Few ancient sites are this complete and accessible. Pula is the highlight of a stay in Istria.