The 19 essential things to do in Istanbul

A masterpiece of Byzantine architecture, Hagia Sophia (Ayasofya) was a Christian basilica for nearly a thousand years, then a mosque under the Ottomans, a museum in the 20th century, and a mosque again since 2020. Under its immense dome, golden mosaics, calligraphy and marble mingle. It's one of the most striking monuments in the world, at the heart of Sultanahmet, facing the Blue Mosque.

Facing Hagia Sophia, the Sultan Ahmed Mosque, known as the Blue Mosque, owes its nickname to the tens of thousands of blue İznik tiles lining its interior. Built in the early 17th century, it stands out for its six minarets and cascade of domes. Still active, it remains a major place of worship, open free to visitors outside prayer times.

Home to the Ottoman sultans for nearly four centuries, Topkapı Palace crowns the Seraglio Point, where the Golden Horn meets the Bosphorus. You move through courtyards, pavilions and gardens, the Imperial Treasury, the sacred relics and the Harem, a maze of apartments with precious tilework. It's one of the largest palace complexes in the world, rich in history and views over the strait.

One of the largest covered markets in the world, the Grand Bazaar (Kapalıçarşı) spreads thousands of shops beneath its painted vaults: carpets, jewellery, leather, ceramics and spices. Born in the 15th century, this labyrinth of covered lanes is an institution where you come as much to buy as to soak up the atmosphere and the art of haggling.

The Bosphorus, the strait separating Europe from Asia, is best discovered from the water. Heading up the strait, you pass Ottoman palaces, fortresses, waterside mosques and wooden mansions (yalı), beneath the great bridges linking the two shores. It's the best way to grasp the city's geography and its intimate bond with the sea.

The historic heart of Istanbul and of the peninsula, Sultanahmet concentrates most of the great monuments: Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, Topkapı Palace, the Basilica Cistern and the old Roman hippodrome all come together within walking distance. It's the natural starting point for a visit, between squares, gardens and history-laden lanes.

Beneath the streets of Sultanahmet lies the Basilica Cistern (Yerebatan), a vast underground water reservoir built in the 6th century under Justinian. Hundreds of ancient columns are reflected in shallow water, in theatrical half-light, up to the famous column bases carved with Medusa heads. The cool, mysterious atmosphere contrasts with the bustle at the surface.

Standing on the north bank of the Golden Horn, in the Karaköy district, the Galata Tower is a medieval tower of Genoese origin. From its gallery, the panoramic view takes in the old city, the Bosphorus and the Golden Horn. A landmark visible from afar, it overlooks the steep lanes of the district, lively with cafés and shops.

On the edge of the Bosphorus, Dolmabahçe Palace marks the sultans' turn towards European splendour: built in the 19th century, it abandons the Topkapı style for Western-inspired gold, crystal and marble. Its crystal staircase, immense chandelier and state rooms reflect the lavish twilight of the Ottoman Empire. Atatürk spent his final days here.

The work of the great architect Sinan, the Süleymaniye Mosque crowns one of the old city's hills. Built in the 16th century for Suleiman the Magnificent, it imposes its harmonious proportions and vast dome. Less crowded than the Blue Mosque, it offers from its terraces one of the finest panoramas over the Golden Horn and the Bosphorus.

Near the Eminönü pier, backing onto the New Mosque, the Spice Bazaar (Mısır Çarşısı) is heady with spices, Turkish delight, dried fruit, teas and honeys. Smaller and denser than the Grand Bazaar, it keeps a colourful, fragrant atmosphere, popular for foodie shopping and taking home a few flavours of Istanbul.

The great pedestrian artery of Beyoğlu, İstiklal Avenue links Taksim Square to the Galata district over nearly two kilometres. Lined with 19th-century buildings, arcades, cafés, shops and consulates, it's one of the liveliest streets in the city, day and night. A nostalgic red tram runs along it through the crowds.

On the slopes running down to the Golden Horn, Balat is one of Istanbul's oldest districts, long home to the Jewish, Greek and Armenian communities. Its sloping lanes line up houses with colourful façades, neighbouring churches, synagogues and mosques, cafés and second-hand shops. Now very photogenic, it keeps a working-class, authentic atmosphere.

Linking the old city to Karaköy across the Golden Horn, the Galata Bridge is a place of life as much as a crossing. On the upper deck, anglers line up their rods from morning to night; on the lower level, fish restaurants line the water. It's an ideal vantage point over the comings and goings of the ferries and the silhouettes of the mosques.

Offshore, in the Sea of Marmara, the Princes' Islands archipelago offers an escape from the bustle. The largest, Büyükada, charms with its 19th-century wooden mansions, pine woods and small beaches. Private cars are banned: you get around on foot, by bike or by electric shuttle, in a peaceful, old-fashioned atmosphere.

Steps from Topkapı, the Istanbul Archaeological Museums bring together three buildings and one of Turkey's richest ancient collections: royal sarcophagi (including the famous Alexander Sarcophagus), antiquities from the ancient Near East and Ottoman tilework. Often less crowded than the great monuments nearby, they offer a dive into millennia of history.

On the European shore of the Bosphorus, Bebek and Ortaköy are two districts where the city breathes by the water. In Ortaköy, the small neo-baroque mosque is reflected in the strait, just beneath the great bridge, amid a market and terraces. Bebek, more upscale, lines up cafés and a waterside promenade. People come to stroll, have a tea and enjoy the view.

The Turkish bath, or hammam, has been an institution in Istanbul since Ottoman times. Under domes pierced with small openings, you move from the hot room to the scrub and then the foam massage, on warm marble. Several historic hammams, such as the Çemberlitaş (16th century) or the Hürrem Sultan near Hagia Sophia, carry on this ritual in a heritage setting.

On a hill in Eyüp, at the head of the Golden Horn, the Pierre Loti Café is named after the French writer who loved Istanbul. The terrace offers a sweeping view over the Golden Horn and the city's domes, especially beautiful in late afternoon. You go up by a cable car that flies over the Eyüp cemetery, in a district that has stayed traditional and religious.